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THE BALZE DI GUARDAMONTE: A CLIMBER‘S PARADISE

  • 25      Martina Prigione
Focus Oltrepò
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A few kilometres from Varzi hides a real gem for climbing enthusiasts: the Balze di Guardamonte. Situated at around 900 metres above sea level, this sandstone limestone cliff is a magnet for climbers of all levels, offering a variety of challenges ranging from single pitches suitable for beginners to challenging routes for experts.

Monte Valassa, also known as Guadamonte (756 m a.s.l.), is a wooded plateau that not only marks the natural boundary between the two provinces, but also holds a fascinating geological history. The Balze di Guardamonte are sedimentary rock formations formed millions of years ago, when the area was covered by an ancient sea. The meeting of the African and European plates, resulting in the formation of the Apennines, created these unique stone waves. These rocks, steeped in history and mystery, today offer a natural gymnasium of rare beauty for climbers.

The Balze di Guardamonte offer three main climbing sectors: First Peak, Second Peak and Third Peak, with a total of around 130 routes. The variety of routes makes this place suitable for everyone, from beginners to experienced climbers. In the lower part of the crag, immersed in a forest that offers shelter and coolness, there are well bolted single pitch routes of moderate difficulty. These sectors, arranged in sequence, also offer a surprise: an impressive 30-metre chimney, perfect for those seeking a unique experience.

Climbing to the upper part, one encounters the best known and most demanding sector. Here, the pitches are short but extremely technical, requiring strength and precision. The routes in this sector will test even the most experienced climbers, offering a climbing experience that, despite its brevity, leaves its mark.

One of the great advantages of the Balze di Guardamonte is the possibility of climbing practically all year round. The variety of exposures and the protection offered by the surrounding vegetation make it possible to find ideal conditions for climbing in every season. Whether it is a cool spring day, a hot summer or a golden autumn, Guardamonte always welcomes climbers with its challenges and natural beauty.

The Balze di Guardamonte are more than just a crag: they are a place where geological history meets the passion for climbing, where every route tells a story and every rock seems to hold an ancient secret. For those seeking a challenge in a unique natural setting, Guardamonte is an unmissable destination, a corner of paradise where time seems to stand still and nature reigns supreme.

 

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