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THE WINE HISTORY OF THE OLTREPÒ PAVESE: DEEP ROOTS AND AGE-OLD TRADITIONS

  • 58      Mariella Rossi
Focus Oltrepò
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The Oltrepò Pavese boasts a wine-making history rooted in ancient times. To fully understand its wine identity, one must look beyond the time horizon and immerse oneself in a past rich in events and traditions. This territory has been contested and influenced by numerous cultures, each of which has left an indelible mark on its viticulture.

The first evidence of viticulture in the Oltrepò Pavese date
At the end of the 18th century, under the control of the Kingdom of Sardinia, the territory witnessed the dissolution of the large latifundia and fiefdoms, favouring the return of vine cultivation into the hands of small farmers. Thanks to their efforts, Oltrepò became an important wine supply area for the cities of Lombardy, especially Milan.
The 19th century was a period of great difficulty for viticulture in the Oltrepò Pavese. The spread of downy and powdery mildew in the 1950s caused serious damage to crops. But it was the arrival of phylloxera in the early 20th century that posed the most devastating threat, destroying a large number of native vines and causing huge production losses.
Despite these adversities, the winegrowers of the Oltrepò Pavese managed to turn difficulties into opportunities. Varieties such as croatina and barbera, which were less vulnerable to epidemics, began to spread. Croatina, in particular, became one of the most important grape varieties in the region. Similarly, barbera, with its resistance and generosity, played a crucial role in the revival of viticulture.s back to pre-Roman times. An exceptional find discovered in Casteggio, a fossilised vine trunk, tells us of a landscape that has kept its contours constant through the centuries. During Roman times, vineyards were organised in fundi, hilly plots of land with houses for processing grapes. The presence of terracotta amphorae testifies to the wine-making activity of that period.
With the advent of the Longobards and later the monastic communities, wine-growing in the Oltrepò Pavese experienced significant development. The monks, with their meticulous organisation, promoted vine cultivation and improved techniques. Although the plains were preferred in the Middle Ages, it was in modern times that the wine vocation of the Oltrepò hills was fully understood.
Another key element of the Oltrepò Pavese wine renaissance was the introduction of pinot noir. This grape variety arrived from France in the late 19th and early 20th century, thanks to the initiative of Agostino De Pretis, several times President of the Council of the Kingdom of Italy. Pinot Noir found in this territory the ideal conditions to grow, becoming the noblest vine in the region and a mainstay in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines.
The Oltrepò Pavese wine history is a narrative of resilience and innovation. Through centuries of challenges and success, the region has developed a unique winemaking tradition, capable of producing wines of the highest quality. Each bottle tells a story of passion, dedication and love for a land that, despite everything, continues to bear extraordinary fruit.
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