RAVIOLI AI FEGATINI DI POLLO - A typical Italian recipe also found in the Oltrepò Pavese area

A ‘popular‘ preparation often associated with Tuscany, but also widespread in the Oltrepò Pavese area. Chicken livers are an inexpensive product that is sometimes overlooked, despite their versatility. In fact, they lend themselves well to becoming the sauce for a risotto, but also simply to be served with crusty bread.

Liver has always been associated with courage, which is why it is called ‘having guts‘. A motto that originated in Greek times, when it was believed that this organ contained the virtues of resourcefulness, strength and recklessness. Perhaps chicken livers render less of an idea given their smaller size, but they are nevertheless an ingredient often mentioned in the history of Italian and Oltrepavese cuisine.

It was only after the Renaissance that the presence of chicken livers became established on tables. Previously, it was considered a waste to sacrifice precious birds that could provide daily eggs, just for a tasteless and, moreover, not very substantial treat. Moreover, livers were relegated to the sustenance of servants. It was the bourgeoisie that introduced them on menus accompanied by game or to season pasta.

As has often been said in this context, the Oltrepò Pavese diet is linked to the rural world, and it is here that dishes such as risottos and ravioli with livers were born. Poor recipes, but no less worthy of note.

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE

• 300 g 0 flour

• 3 eggs

• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

• 500 g chicken livers

• 2 shallots

• 40 gr butter

• Bay leaves, thyme

• Wine vinegar for blending

• 1 glass of fortified wine (marsala or port)

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• Salt, pepper

• 200 g ricotta cheese

PROCEDURE

Prepare the dough by mixing the flour with the eggs and extra virgin olive oil. Knead until smooth and leave to rest covered for 30 minutes.

For the liver pâté, which will be used both as a stuffing softened by the ricotta and as a final accompaniment, clean the livers. In a frying pan, brown the shallot with thyme and bay leaf in butter. Once softened, add the livers and caramelise with the sugar. Deglaze with the vinegar and wait a few minutes. Deglaze with the fortified wine and wait until it has completely evaporated. Blend the mixture, adding broth if necessary, but leaving a firm and compact consistency.

Roll out the dough thinly and prepare the filling by combining half of the liver pate with the ricotta. Prepare the ravioli. Cook in boiling water for a few minutes and sauté in a pan with butter. Serve with Parmesan cheese and the remaining patè.

Wine pairing: Lughet Oltrepò‘ Pavese Chardonnay DOC 2016 - Bertè & Cordini