In the heart of the Oltrepò Pavese, among the valleys and villages dotting the upper Staffora valley, lies a hidden treasure: Ceregate, the ghost town. And thanks to the tireless efforts of the ‘CamminandoInOltrepò‘ social page, we can now venture out to discover this place steeped in history and mystery.
We start by thanking "Camminandoinoltrepo", which guided us through the natural wonders of the Oltrepò Pavese, now taking us on a unique journey through the history and beauty of Ceregate. The excursion begins in the hamlet of Cegni, near the Church of Santa Margherita Staffora, where we park the car and prepare to immerse ourselves in the magic of this route. The road, which is 8 kilometres long and lasts about two hours, winds along an evocative dirt track, guaranteeing authentic contact with the surrounding nature. Leaving the car behind, we drive along the central street of Cegni, crossing the entire village until we reach an ancient stone washhouse, witness to a past full of life and work. From here, we head up a gentle slope that leads to a fork in the road, where a wooden sign indicates the road to Ceregate. We follow the path to the left, crossing a stream and admiring a charming little waterfall that welcomes our steps. The route, characterised by gentle ups and downs and breathtaking views of the upper Staffora valley, leads us towards "Lago", a small cluster of houses abandoned in the late 1960s. Here, amidst the ruins now submerged by vegetation, we breathe in the atmosphere of a time gone by, when Ceregate was still inhabited by five families, lacking any modern comforts. Finally arriving in Ceregate, we are confronted with an atmosphere suspended in time. The last inhabitant, Carlo Buscaglia, left the village back in 1986, leaving us only the mute remains of stone houses. Here, life flowed without electricity or sewage services, with water from a small spring feeding the entire community. Today, these ancient dwellings come alive only twice a year, during religious festivals, when the village is repopulated with visitors and devotees. After respectfully exploring the ruins and evidence of a distant past, we return to Cegni along the same route, allowing ourselves a short diversions to the Church of San Rocco and a stop at Bar Ca‘ del Jack, the village‘s social hub. And so we conclude this evocative excursion, thanking "CamminandoInOltrepò" for having led us to the discovery of Ceregate, a place where time seems to have stood still, leaving intact the beauty of a past to be rediscovered.
Happy walking to all those who would like to follow us on this adventure!
