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THE WITCH TOWER OF VARZI: AN EERIE JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY OF OLTREPO‘ PAVESE

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In the heart of the medieval town of Varzi, nestled between narrow streets and ancient walls, stands the majestic Torre delle Streghe (Witches‘ Tower), an imposing structure that tells centuries of history steeped in mystery and darkness. Also known as the Malaspina Tower, this iconic symbol of the city holds the secrets of a troubled past shrouded in the shadows of legends.

The Ancient Origin of the Tower

Its history dates back to the 13th century, when the Malaspina, a powerful noble family from Lombardy, erected this imposing tower as part of the territory‘s defence system. Standing 29 metres high, the Torre delle Streghe (Witches‘ Tower) dominated the surrounding landscape, acting as a bulwark against external threats and a symbol of power for its lords.

The Dark Days of the Inquisition

However, it was during the period of the Inquisition that the tower acquired a sinister and unsettling aura. In 1460, during the fervour of the witch hunts, the Witch Tower became a place of terror and oppression. It is said that dozens of people, mainly women, were imprisoned within its walls accused of practising witchcraft and making a pact with the devil. These alleged sorcerers and witches suffered a cruel fate, condemned to be burnt at the stake in the nearby Town Hall Square, later renamed with the name it bears today, a macabre reminder of those dark days.

The Persistence of Horror in Time

Despite the end of the Inquisition, the Witches‘ Tower continued to cast its shadow over Varzi. For decades, the tower served as a prison, a silent witness to injustice and human suffering. Until the 1960s, when the Carabinieri decided to transform part of its rooms into safe rooms, the tower continued to house prisoners, keeping alive its reputation as a place of torment and oppression.

The Tower‘s Renaissance

However, the fate of the Witch Tower was to change. Thanks to the joint efforts of the municipality of Varzi, its citizens and generous sponsors, the tower has recently undergone a thorough restoration. Its ancient walls have been restored to their former glory and the tower has been reopened to the public, allowing visitors to explore its rooms and immerse themselves in the troubled history of this place.

A Journey in the Tower

Climbing the 89 steep and narrow steps that wind their way inside the Witches‘ Tower is an experience that brings with it a mixture of excitement and disquiet. The four rooms on the way up once served as a prison, guarding dark secrets and tales of human suffering. But upon reaching the top, visitors are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the medieval town of Varzi and the surrounding hills, a moment of peace and beauty that contrasts with the tower‘s tumultuous past.

Varzi‘s Torre delle Streghe (Witches‘ Tower) is more than just a historical structure. It is a monument that narrates the complexity of the human being, with its darkness and its light, its injustices and its moments of redemption. Through its troubled history, the tower reminds us to learn from the mistakes of the past and to look to the future with hope and compassion. May the Witches‘ Tower continue to light the way for visitors, providing an opportunity to reflect on the depths of the human soul and the power of resilience.

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