Our chef Patrizia Ferlini will accompany us on a discovery of a new dish typical of the Oltrepò Pavese. In this article, we will discover the recipe for «Ragò».
Everything can be said except that it is a light dish. Ragò is part of Pavia‘s gastronomic tradition and has always been associated with the cold winter period. It is precisely its fatness that makes it ideal for the season, but also the concomitance with the period of pig slaughtering and the harvesting of cabbage in the gardens. Ribs, pork rinds, pig‘s trotter and cabbage are the main ingredients of this dish that is never missing in Pavia‘s homes.
It has some differences from cassœula milanese, such as the addition of tomato puree. The latter ingredient is also sometimes present on Pavia‘s tables, but grandmothers‘ recipes tend to omit it. History sees ragò prepared on the feast day dedicated to Saint Anthony Abbot, the day pigs were slaughtered, 17 January. Legends, on the other hand, see it associated with the Celts. Cooked to celebrate the feast of Samonios, the first days of November, it was the dish that celebrated the union between the earthly and the otherworldly, a bit like our chickpea soup.
There are versions of choucro all over the world. From neighbouring France where choucroute sees the meeting of pork and cabbage, as in the Neapolitan minestra maritata. As is often the case, a romantic story hovers over this recipe. It seems, in fact, that a young Spanish soldier proposed it to his Lombard beloved, who cooked it in a casserole dish, hence the name cassœula.
One of the basic rules for the preparation of this dish is that the savoy cabbage must have suffered the winter frost. This is necessary so that its fibres are broken down and it is therefore more digestible. Given the temperatures of recent times, this can be remedied by placing it in the freezer for a few hours.
INGREDIENTS FOR 8 PEOPLE
● 800 g pork ribs
● 2 pig‘s trotters
● 500 g pork rind
● 5 boars
● 800g of pork snout
● 2 kg of Savoy cabbage
● 1 onion
● 1 carrot
● 2 bay leaves
● oil
● salt
● 1 glass of white wine
PROCEDURE
In a perfect Pavia-style ragout, you can‘t miss the pig‘s feet and ribs. Ingredients such as rind and snout can be added or not depending on personal taste.
Start by cleaning the Savoy cabbage, separating the leaves and removing the tough ribs. Wash and drain them.
In a saucepan, brown the onion and carrot with the bay leaf in a little oil. Add the ribs and fry them. Add the other cuts of meat, except the rinds and cabbage, and after browning, add the white wine. Add the roughly chopped Savoy cabbage and moisten with broth or water.
After about an hour, add the cabbage and rind. Boil for another hour. The ragò will be ready as soon as the sauce is almost glutinous and the meat is falling apart.
WINE PAIRING
Our chef recommends pairing this dish with "Dione Bonarda secco frizzante dell‘Oltrepò Pavese DOC", from Cantina di Vicobarone.
