If you’re looking for a unique hike in the Oltrepò Pavese, the Nivione Badlands Loop is a true hidden gem.
This circular route starts in Varzi and winds through wild landscapes, spectacular ridgelines, dense forests, and ancient villages, offering an intense and evocative experience between the Staffora and Curone Valleys.
Departure from Varzi: heading toward the Nivione Valley
Our journey begins in Varzi, a charming medieval village in the Oltrepò area. After crossing the bridge over the Staffora stream, we follow the road toward Val Curone for about 4 kilometers. At this point, we turn right following the signs for Valle di Nivione and begin our ascent.
Once we reach the pass, a dirt road climbs up to the left—this is where the real trail begins. The path immediately becomes interesting, with panoramic ridges offering breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding hills. The landscape is typical of the most authentic Oltrepò: wild, silent, dotted with oaks, broom bushes, and dog rose shrubs.
Toward Castagnola: between trails and woods
At a crossroads, we turn right and begin the descent toward the picturesque village of Castagnola. After reaching the paved road, we follow the signs for Dego, leaving a farmhouse behind us. From here, we take another dirt trail that runs alongside a wide uphill field.
The hike gets serious: we enter a forest where the slope becomes challenging and the path turns narrow and technical. But the effort is worth it—once at the top, the view opens up over the Staffora Valley, and the first spectacular glimpses of the Nivione Badlands begin to appear.
The Nivione Badlands: a lunar landscape in the Oltrepò
Continuing along the ridge, the terrain changes beneath our feet: the clay becomes crumbly, the trail dusty. It’s a sign we’ve entered the heart of the badlands—erosive clay and silt formations, sculpted by time and rain into sharp ridges and dizzying slopes. A landscape that feels like it’s from another planet.
Upon reaching the hamlet of Nivione, we turn left and cross orchards and cultivated fields until we reach the small village of Castello di Nivione. Here, a left turn leads us onto a dirt road that winds into the true heart of the badlands—a natural corridor between earthen spires and clay ridges, a geological wonder worth every step.
Return to Varzi: closing the loop
The descent begins. We reach Casa Bertella, from where a paved road gently leads us back to Varzi, completing a perfect loop for those seeking an immersive hike through the wild nature of the Oltrepò Pavese—where history, geology, and unforgettable views come together.
Conclusion
The Nivione Badlands hike is a true adventure through the lesser-known wonders of the Oltrepò Pavese. Perfect for those who love unusual landscapes, off-the-beaten-path trails, and the raw thrill of nature. A route that blends beauty, effort, and discovery. Try it—you won’t regret it!
