A Weekend Discovering the Villages of Oltrepò Pavese: Timeless Emotions

The Oltrepò Pavese, a land of borders and ancient traditions, offers a journey through time with enchanting villages that have preserved their historical soul intact. A weekend in this region means immersing yourself in an authentic atmosphere, strolling through stone-paved alleys, exploring castles, and admiring rolling hills wrapped in centuries-old vineyards.

Romagnese is a small gem nestled in the mountainous part of the Oltrepò Pavese. This village, home to just over 600 residents, holds unique natural and historical wonders. The Dal Verme Castle, dating back to the 15th century, now houses the town hall and a museum of rural art. The Church of San Lorenzo, with its 17th-century Baroque architecture, and the Oratory of the Dead of San Lorenzo, hidden in the woods of Monte Penice, exude a timeless charm. Outside the village center, the Pietra Corva Alpine Garden hosts over three thousand plant species, while the Rivarolo waterfalls offer a breathtaking natural spectacle.

In the heart of the Staffora Valley, Varzi has preserved its medieval essence. Its towers, the 14th-century porticoes of Via del Mercato, and the historic Via della Maiolica tell a story of trade and pilgrim passage along the Salt Road. The Church of the Rossi and the Church of the Bianchi safeguard artistic treasures and centuries-old traditions. The Witches’ Tower, linked to chilling stories of witch trials in the 15th century, adds a touch of mystery to this timeless village.

With fewer than 500 residents, Fortunago is a perfect balance of history, nature, and traditional architecture. Ancient stone facades, porphyry-paved streets, and a breathtaking landscape make it one of the most fascinating villages in the Oltrepò. Here, the atmosphere is reminiscent of times gone by, with historic workshops, wood-fired ovens, and even an active blacksmith’s shop. The 16th-century Parish Church and the remains of the castle narrate the long history of this charming corner of Lombardy.

Montalto Pavese is renowned for its magnificent 16th-century castle, an imposing structure with square towers and a sumptuous inner courtyard. The castle features elegantly furnished rooms, a private chapel, and two gardens—one Italian-style and the other English-style. Nearby, Villa Illibradi houses the Museum of Rural Civilization, a collection of historical objects that tell the story of the region’s agricultural past. The Belvedere Madonna del Vento is the perfect spot to admire endless panoramic views and practice free flight, thanks to the favorable winds in the area.

Nestled in the vineyards of the Valle Versa, Golferenzo is a small village with a magical atmosphere. With fewer than 200 inhabitants and situated at an altitude of 464 meters, it is a perfect retreat for those seeking peace and beauty. Here, visitors can taste local wines such as Bonarda, Barbera, Riesling, and Cabernet, produced in the numerous wineries surrounding the village. Golferenzo also features an “albergo diffuso”—a widespread hotel concept where guests stay in restored historic homes, offering an authentic and charming experience.

Visiting the villages of the Oltrepò Pavese is like stepping out of time. Life here moves at a slow pace, marked by the sound of church bells, the rustling of leaves, and the intense flavor of a glass of local wine. Each village tells a story, each alley holds a secret. The Oltrepò is not just a destination—it is an emotional journey that leaves an indelible mark on the heart of those who discover it.